Storm Window Solar Panel

9/28 - Well, there's no fixing it. A friend of mine and I tried to no avail. Crap. If you use a vinyl window, make sure to put screws in the vinyl to hold the window in place. Do NOT expect the locks and actual tracks to hold it in place. They won't. As you can see, the track failed after the locks - which if you look closely at the upper left corner - bent and allowed the window to release. Otherwise, the plans at the bottom of this post are rock solid. The vinyl fails between 200 and 300 degrees fahrenheit. So - it got that kind heat built up in it - it works!

8/31/08 - Yes, I know - talk about delayed projects. It's all assembled and was awaiting another strong body to help me place it by the shed.
You know what I found out? The vinyl the new windows are made with isn't capable of withstanding whatever the temp was inside the heater - even with air flowing through. I'm not pleased. I have to now figure out how to FIX it before I start working on installing it.

Well, I'm going to dabble in DIY solar.

My mom and I are building an outbuilding. Or, for those in the architectural know, a backyard cottage (cackle). Just heard about it this term last Sunday. Go figure. It's actually going to be a work shop for a very small money-making hobby. Another term I'd not heard of.
Anyway, heating it is a concern. We're going to have to keep it at a somewhat constant temp of at least 50 F. That means we need a heat source for winter - which is up to 5 months here in upstate NY.

I stumbled upon the following article from Mother Earth News

I know this won't be sufficient for a 24 hour period, particularly when there's no sun - we compete with Portland OR for fewest sunny days and most precipitation. However, every little bit helps and would surely help us save space by having a smaller heater - of whatever type. I'm really against oil since it leaves a film - regardless of how clean it burns or how sealed a unit. No woodstove - not tending 2 woodfires, thank you. Not piping gas and getting into that regulatory hassle. That leaves electric and pellet stove. We might do electric this year and see.

I have insulated it better than 90% of the homes in the US, along with GREAT windows, so heat loss will be minimal. I'm also in the process of insulating the actual house far better, so that will allow for extra electricity to be used out there without disrupting any aspect of the budget, in case the money making part of the hobby doesn't start making right away.

They used old sliding glass door glass. I have an extra window from the shed that I am going to use for the project. Here are my plans that I drew up


This church used soda cans - we have cat food cans! No cutting! (I'm virtually gleeful about this part).

I can't use steel - no gots. But, I have a ton of scrap lumber from numerous other projects. Plus a lot of radiant barrier insulation, fiberglass insulation, and styrofoam insulation. 10/24 - My cousin made the boxes for me - so he didn't go quite by instructions. Pissed me off no end, but I use what I have...


Flat black paint - I may go with a high heat type used for wood stoves just because I know it exists. 10/24 - went with an oil based for durability.

Piping - I'm seriously considering 2 sizes of PVC pipe. Smaller for actual air flow. Wrap with insulation and insert into larger pipe. Did this - worked great!

Wall Openings - Have 2 separate openings in the wall, rather than a single one as many window solar heaters have. One low for cold air return and one high for heat. It'll still syphon the way it's supposed to, but without the mixing of temperatures with a 2 chamber unit as so many have.

Can Arrangement - I was thinking a 'best fit' placement to begin with. Alternate the cans as if making a pyramid. But, with the radiant barriers I have, I'm wondering if purely adjacent to each other would work better, allowing some light behind, reflecting back up onto the sides of the cans for added heating. Comments? I did purely adjacent. We'll see!