Outdoor Water Conservation

I'd rather people not water anything outside, but I know that's a foolish thought. Vanity, which brings about container plants that don't belong in all parts of the country, etc. Watering will continue to occur.

The following is from the Home Depot Gardening Newsletter.

Water is a precious resource, and for homeowners on a municipal water supply it’s an expensive one, too. Since up to one half of all household water is used in the lawn and garden, it makes sense to look at efficient, effective, and convenient ways to keep plants healthy so you can enjoy a beautiful landscape and conserve water.

Water at the Right Time
You may be surprised at how much water is lost to evaporation when you water on a warm, sunny afternoon — estimates put the amount at up to 30%. The best time to water is early morning or evening. If you are using an overhead sprinkler, water in the morning so foliage can dry quickly. During drought conditions, some municipalities mandate that watering be done after dark. A programmable timer that turns water on and off at set times is especially handy in this situation.
From L - watering in the early AM is best - higher water pressure AND reduction of risk for fungal diseases.


Avoid Runoff
In addition to evaporation, water is frequently lost to runoff. If land is sloped or soil is compacted, water won't sink in but will instead drain away. Soaker hoses minimize runoff, but there are other ways to help, too. For example, create a "donut" of soil around new plants by mounding soil into a low berm around the stem or trunk. This creates a shallow bowl where the water you apply will puddle and soak in slowly, rather than running off. Once plants are established, flatten this berm so water drains away from the plant.

From L - if you are watering in zones - time it so you water for a limited time in each zone, repeating zones 3-4 times. When I lived in TX, I watered each zone for 15 minutes 3-4 times. I had virtually no run off and used 1/4 of the water with better plant results than our neighbors.

Water Deeply
When you water, strive to moisten the soil down to the depth of the plants' root systems. Newly seeded areas and transplants may need daily watering. But for established plants and lawns, daily light sprinklings of water can actually do more harm than good because they encourage plants to form shallow roots, which dry out quickly. Weekly deep soakings are much better for plants. Water established perennial plants so that soil is moist to a depth of at least six inches. On lawns, moisten soil to depth of at least two and preferably three inches. Dig a hole to see how deeply the water has penetrated.
From L - if you don't get about 1/2" of rain each week, water your annuals and newly transplanted perennials with the method I mentioned above. This should take the water down to the depth the roots can use them. Deep roots mean strong roots.

Adjust Water to Plants' Needs
Some plants need more water than others to thrive. Squash, melons, and tomatoes require consistently moist soil to produce their best. Other plants, such as many native flowers, can dry out between waterings with no ill effects. A rule of thumb is to apply one inch of water per week — and that includes what nature provides. The easiest way to determine this is with a rain gauge.

One simple way to determine how much water you're applying with an overhead sprinkler is to set out an empty can — a tuna or cat food can is handy because it's about an inch tall. When the can is filled an inch of water has fallen. Once you determine how long it takes your system to apply an inch of water, you can set a timer.

Amend Soil and Apply Mulch
Interestingly, adding organic matter to soil helps it absorb and retain water, while also improving its drainage. Mix in organic matter at planting time and use organic mulches, such as bark chips or pine straw; as they decompose they'll add organic matter to soil.
From L - There are good mulches and bad mulches.
Bad
peat moss - Peat bogs are being dessimated along with their ecosystems because Americans are under the assumption that peat moss helps the soil. It doesn't for more than a week. Don't spend the money
wood chips and bark - take far more nitrogen to break the wood down than it supplies to the soil, making the soil worse than before. It also will wash away easily unless shredded and can introduce molds and fungus to your soil that you don't want.
stone does nothing to hold water in or moderate temperature of the soil. If you feel you NEED stone, choose a stone that is mined locally and not through strip mining and place it on top of a good mulch.
grass clippings - too high in nitrogen and can burn the plants you've placed it around. It also breaks down very quickly and will not last an entire season. Why mulch multiple times if you don't have to?
Good - compost, leaf mulch - both, placed at about a 2" depth will keep weeds to a minimum, hold moisture in, bring beneficial insects and moderates soil temperatures during the extremes of summer.
OK - Recycled Paper - doesn't add much to the soil as it breaks down but earth worms LOVE paper. So, if you wish to buy or have a certain color, this might be a good option for you.

7/15 From Organic Gardening - Research Report on mulches